Great Taste

Lincolnwood, Illinois, has the best and most authentic Shi-cauw-goh pizza

Jay: Next time you are in the Chicago area order deep dish "Buttercrust" at Lou Malnati's Pizzeria. Add Malnati salad. Fini. 

Shipping the pizza means missing out on the expert baking, pan-to-table service--and "Buttercrust" style (the last of which puts the pie in a class by itself).  Plus no Malnati salad.  

If you know someone in Chicago who wants to help you out, he or she can advance-order the "Buttercrust," pick it up, and have it shipped it to you. But Gourmanda has found that, even when ordered hot as carry-out and consumed  just 10 minutes later, the pie is not as crisp and irresistible as it is eaten on site.  

Giordano's? Gino's East? These are for out-of-towners.

Lou Malnati's has many metro Chicago locations now-a-days, including a whopping Near North Side location (convenient to downtown) opened in July. Gourmanda sticks to the Lincolnwood original.  

Sopra Sotto to close

Sopra Sotto, "The Italian Living Store," located in The Shops at University Square, Rochester, will be closing its doors for good in the coming weeks. 

Owner Maureen McNally writes in an email:

"I have decided that it is time to relocate back to my second hometown of Los Angeles, California, and re-imagine Sopra Sotto! I will be opening a showroom in the Los Angeles Mart and continue to be a source of fine Italian artisanal products....Sopra Sotto will continue as an on-line business as well as a direct business source in California. To make it even easier we will be adding an Amazon Sopra Sotto store as well as retaining our www.sopra-sotto.com store.....As part of our business plan for Sopra Sotto in the future, we hope to expand our offerings also to include fine Italian wines." 

Sopra Sotta has for years helped anchor downtown Rochester's food scene. Its merchandise has included outstanding Italian imported products ranging from Carnaroli risotto rice, lentils, and specialty pastas to fine chocolates to dried porcini mushrooms, uncommon balsamic vinegars, olive oils, and herb blends.

Regularly featured Italian cooking classes have been often taught by top Italian chef and cookbook author Antonio Cecconi. Delicious, freshly prepared foods and beverages have been available for eat-in at an elegant counter in the back of the shop.

Sopra Sotto also has featured Italian handmade ceramics, sleek espresso machines, table linens, leather goods, and bath and body products, among other items.

This writer wishes Ms. McNally the best of luck with her future plans but will sorely miss her retail space in the heart of downtown.....Great Taste offers a heartfelt "thank you" to Maureen for serving the area with her truly exceptional store.

Looking for Father's Day ideas?

Consider the following, featuring chef/instructor Antonio Cecconi, from Sopra Sotto, Rochester:

OH, MY PAPA! FATHER'S DAY BRUNCH 

SUNDAY, JUNE 19TH

NOON TO 3 PM

Antonio will inspire you and your Papa with a menu that is wonderful for summer grilling. Tasty Herb Pasta will be prepared and served as the first course. The main course will be Grilled Spiedini Misti of meat and vegetables on Rosemary Spears.  A hearty Insalata Piccante features green beans, fresh fennel, radicchio and marinated artichoke hearts with Three Herb Dressing.  Dessert is the classic Italian Strawberry Zabaglione.  Italian wines accompany the courses.

For more information on this and other upcoming Sopra Sotto culinary events, click here. 

What is an espressoholic? The tell-tale signs

Great Taste, aka Chef's Toque or Gourmanda Galore--that pompous writer on culinary wunderlust and Upper Midwest haut food cravings and crazes--is a "bad girl" when it comes to espresso. One might describe her habits as... "espressoholic."  

She doesn't look at the clock before drinking....

She drinks espresso in the morning. And at night. Of course there's the afternoon pick-me-up. Decaf? What's the point? 

Her motto: Have espresso machine, will travel. She takes her trusty Nespresso machine and capsules on the road. 

She drinks at home, often alone. Coffee shops and cafes? Nuh-uh.

Most people behind the counter do not know how to make espresso. They know how to steam milk. They take a shot of espresso and pour about 20 ounces of steamy milk on it and call it a cappucino or a latte. (In America, is there a difference?) It doesn't matter whether she is in Manhattan or in Minnesota.  (Though in Manhattan you may periodically luck out --but why chance it?) Italy is a good place for consistently great espresso--in cafes, ristorantes, and so on. Unless one plans to move there it's too far to go for espresso--but then again, ahem, how can one miss the upcoming Venice Biennale?  

She'll settle for less, out of necessity.  When in need, she will visit a coffee shop and ask for triple espresso straight up, with steamed milk on the side. Sometimes that request works out, as long as the beans and the espresso machine are good--which is less than 50 percent of the time. But she'll try to drink it if it is at all palatable.

If company calls, she'll immediately offer some espresso, in hopes they'll say yes and she can make a cup for herself as well. 

Espressoholics walk around and look just like everyone else. So it may be hard to identify one. But now Great Taste has confessed. You are reading the words of one who drinks a lot of espresso. And she isn't apologizing for it.....She'll keep her tin of mints handy, though.

Sontes springs ahead with chef's Italian dinner

Bryce Lamb, the chef who took the helm at Sontes Restaurant, Rochester, last December, will hold his first Chef's Dinner March 26. The lavish nine-course Italian meal will include locally raised roasted leg of lamb, housemade spinach pasta, and handmade canolli.

Also at Sontes this month--and for those less than thrilled with typical St. Patrick's Day offerings--is a California Zinfandel wine class March 17. Among topics to be explored: "What really is Zinfandel?"

More on both events: http://www.sontes.com/information/events.html

 

Yes! Mozzarella di bufala made in Wisconsin

 

Imagine your caprese salad made with mozzarella di bufala from Plain, Wisconsin, a little more than a 3 hour car-ride from Rochester. 

Check out Cedar Grove Cheese:  http://my.execpc.com/~cgcheese/ArtisanCheese.html

Water buffalo mozzarella (translation) is a classic Italian cheese that's superior to fresh cow's milk mozzarella in flavor but difficult to find domestically--and that's an understatement. The imported version, though available on a limited basis, is a letdown not only for its steep price but because the highly perishable product usually arrives on southern Minnesota retail shelves when it is already starting to turn. (This comes from personal experience--several times and from two different stores.) 

GG plans to order Cedar Grove's water buffalo mozzarella and will get a report back to you. Tomatoes are flavorless now so she'll probably match it with some La Quercia proscuitto, the freshest EVOO she can find, and a little crusty bread, or....just canned peaches.

 

Update: Italian cooking classes for spring at Sopra Sotto

From Sopra Sotto, Rochester:

THE ART OF PRIMO PIATTO: FIRST COURSES WITH ANTONIO CECCONI

Saturday, March 12, 2011

 

Learn the basics of pasta, risotto and polenta - the three basics true Italian che's master. First, the classic technique for  homemade pasta.  Risotto is common in the Po River valley and has spread throughout the country and world. The mountains and rural towns of northern Italy are famous for polenta.  Once the basic technique is mastered, polenta can be served as an elegant antipasti platter or the base for a main course dish topped with meat sauce. This is true Italian cooking at it's best!  Wine served, as always!

ARRIVEDERCI TO WINTER WITH ANTONIO CECCONI

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Is winter over yet? Here is an Italian solution to that question: Start with an antipasti of spinach polenta soup, follow with an Il Primo of Chicken with Tarragon Mustard sauce accompanied by Eggplant Parmesan; Dessert will be an Alpine Almond Torte, which is always a palate pleaser.

This menu will feel like the perfect way to say arrivederci to winter! Wine will accompany the courses.

 

The Cuisine of Le Marche
Wednesday, March 23

The Italian region of Le Marche, known as "the anti-Tuscany", in many ways mirrors the image of its more internationally renowned neighbor. Le Marche  is located on the eastern coastline of Italy & is an undiscovered jewel. This region borders Tuscany, Emilia Romagna, Abruzzo and Umbria; borrowing from the cuisines of all four regions. It's Central Italy at its tastiest! 

Antonio will give us the Grand Tour and incorporate some of the signature dishes of Le Marche for this evening. We will also explore the wines of this delightful region.

Primavera in Italia (Springtime in Italy)
Saturday, April 9, 2011

Springtime in Italy is signaled by the arrival of fresh sweet fruits and vegetables that appear in the market and at the roadside vendors. Tender fresh herbs bursting with flavor, artichokes and berries enliven the menu and spirit again. Antonio will take you away to Italy with a first course of Pasta Primavera with fresh herbs that really tastes like spring! This will be followed by sizzling Spring Lamb chops with mint accompanied by Sautéed Artichokes and Insalata al Basilico.  Dessert is a Raspberry Fruit Sorbet. Wine accompanies the courses.

ITALIAN EASTER BRUNCH
Sunday, April 10, 2011

Celebrate Spring with an Antipasto of Frittata del Giardino (Frittata Garden Style)  followed by Ziti  Asparagi ( Ziti pasta with asparagus sauce). The main course is Salmone Marinato alla Menta (grilled salmon with mint marinade) accompanied by Peperonata ai Tre Colori  (Warm Tricolor Bell Pepper Salad). Strawberries with Marsala Sauce end the meal on a yummy note!

CUISINE OF EMILIA-ROMAGNA
Thursday, April 21, 2011

Emilia-Romagna is the considered the culinary capital of Italy. Parma, Bologna, Modena and Reggio are famous for ingredients like prosciutto, balsamic vinegar, Parmigiana-Reggiano cheese and, of course, Bolognese sauce.  On the menu this evening is Ravioli Bolognese which will show you the techniques of the perfect Bolognese sauce. For the Secondo course, “Costolette di Maiale al Pepe” (peppered pork chops) served with “Cavolfiore e Finocchio Gratinato” (cauliflower and fennel gratin) and an Insalta. Our dolci is Profiterole with Chocolate Amaretto sauce. 

Italian soup class on the 12th

With below-zero temps on the way, this class sounds benissimo. From Sopra Sotto,  Rochester:

ZUPPA! ITALIAN SOUPS with ANTONIO CECCONI

Wednesday, January 12th       6p.m. to 9p.m.

  

Break the ice and warm up to ZUPPA! Antonio’s menu this evening is all about soups of intense flavor and aromas. Learn the techniques the Italians use for their flavorful soups, delicious in winter or anytime. Start with Roasted Garlic and Onion soup ladled over warm homemade bread. Lest you think that polenta comes in squares only, Antonio presents a hearty Spinach Polenta soup. Next we savor Classic Minestrone, simple, packed with vegetables and very tasty. We end with a smile tasting fresh Basil Rice soup, aromatic and substantial, a meal on its own. Winter will end soon with these soups to serve.  Wine pairings with every course.

Holiday shopping? How 'bout fresh, fresh, fresh olive oil from Italy

Great Taste wants to spread the word about Sopra Sotto's northern Italian olio nuovo and southern Italian olio novello. 

From Sopra Sotto: 

These young oils are vibrant green in color with a viscous silken texture and the aroma of freshly cut grass, pepper, green apple, artichoke and olive leaf on the pallet. The very first press of the oil is designated as extra virgin.  The qualities in this very exceptional oil are creamy, piquant, zesty, and unfiltered. Olio Nouvo or Olio Novello is the oil in its most intense state, immediately bottled after pressing and not allowed to settle.  

Geographic location and olive varietals play a role in the nouvo or novello oil’s flavor profile. Many of the olive groves in Italy are filled with ancient trees.  Although these ancient trees do not produce as much fruit as younger trees, the fruit is more intense and complex in flavor.  The diversity in climate, varietals and topography gives the nouvo or novello oils of each region their own unique aroma and flavor.

Following are the Olio Nouvos / Olio Novellos now available at Sopra Sotto:

Tenuta di Capezzana Olio Nuovo:  Pressed the week of October 25, 2010, this beautiful lime green olive oil is from the Tuscan Region.  Aromatic of lemon with a buttery texture.  Notes of artichoke, green tea and apple, this olive oil finishes with hints of wintergreen and pine.  Drizzle on seafood, sautéed greens, or roasted Brussels sprouts.  Olive varietals:  Frantoio, Moraiolo, Pendolino, Leccino, Santa Caterina.  

Olio Verde Olio Novello:  From a Sicilian country estate, this lush green-gold oil was pressed the week of October 7^th.  Tastes of fresh cut grass and lime.  Consistently well balanced, this harvest is pungent and well-rounded.  Drizzel on fish or bruschetta or serve with lamb, grilled steak, sardines, or roasted potatoes.  Olive varietals:  100% Nocellara del Belice.

Casale Olio Novello: Pressed on October 20^th and 21^st , this deep green olive oil is from Pianella, Abruzzo and NEW to Sopra Sotto! Aromatic of olives with a nutty taste.  Hints of green tea, artichoke and cinnamon, with a pungent peppery finish.  Serve with grilled meat, hearty fish and roasted squash.  Olive varietals:  90% Dritta and 10% Lecchino olives. 

Frescobaldi Laudemio First Pressing:  Pressed the week of October 25^th, this oil is a luscious emerald green color from Florence, Italy. Robust, complex oil redolent of fresh cut grass and citrus with cinnamon and a peppery finish. Serve with everything; winter soups, farro, roasted vegetables, grilled meats, even pizza. Olive varietals :  Frantoio, Moraiolo, Leccino. 

Prices for the oils range from $32 to $45 for one-half liter (16.9 ounces). 

 

Mozzarella making demo at Zzest

Do you love fresh mozzarella cheese?

On April 1 Jim Gregori, owner of California-based Cantare Foods, will show how to make fresh mozzarella at Zzest Culinary Market & Wine Cafe, Rochester. Gregori is expected to start "pulling" cheese at 4 pm. Tasting is encouraged.

Gregori has reportedly made thousands of pounds of mozzarella. His fresh cheese will be available to take home with a good will offering benefiting The Boys & Girls Club of Rochester.