I've been prying open mussels in restaurants all over the Rochester area for the past few weeks, and in Thursday's 507 I'll have the results. Here's a preview -- one of the four restaurants I'll feature on Thursday:
I tend to like just about anything that comes in a shell, from abalone to zebra mussels -- well, maybe not the zebra variety, but just about any other variety of mussels. At City Cafe in Rochester, they're Puget Sound mussels, rope-grown in traditional fashion, and they're about as big and meaty as you'll find, with not a grain of grit. They're served in a large bowl, about a dozen of them, in a garlicky chablis broth that's also green with pesto.
Torpedoed in the middle of the dish is a half-baguette of hot, fresh bread, which reminds me: a key part of any presentation of mussels is the bread. You won't want to miss a drop of the shellfish-flavored wine broth, and no ordinary bread with do. At City Cafe, their outstanding sourdough baguette will always remind me of Broadstreet Cafe, now 300 First. They're both owned by Creative Cuisine Co., and the bread's available at their Redwood Room as well.