Home-cooking needs a taste of home
One of the most satisfying things in the world to the writer of GreenSpace is being able to cook -- and not just cook, but feel a sense of mastery in the kitchen. I look inside a refrigerator and figure out how to make something chic with basic ingredients -- whatever's around -- adding something from the cabinet and something else from the spice drawer. Voila.
Now is the time when I also look outdoors for the improv meal. Fresh herbs can make ordinary ingredients like potatoes, eggs or rice fly high. With tender dill, aromatic sage or the briskness of mint, it doesn't take much to whip up memorable plates.
But GreenSpace doesn't want to improvise every day, or pull recipes from everywhere but here. She has been on a mission to find regional cookbooks that reflect the pleasure of eating out of one's garden, with a sense of heritage attached to it. GreenSpace continues to hunt.
Modern Minnesota cookery, it seems, isn't pure and proud; it spurns its history and yearns to be everything to everyone. It's style born out of an inferiority complex.
There's nothing wrong with pizza margherita. But why have a recipe for it in a brand new Minnesota cookbook (name withheld) as an example of local food and cooking style? Or Berkshire pork chops? (Excuse me, did somebody miss a turn on the highway 1,200 miles from here?) Then there's hummus
made with canned or dried chickpeas. Another recipe calls for frozen peas. This state ranks first in the production of green peas. ...Why not suggest fresh peas in a contemporary cookbook?
For solace, I go to my shelf and pull out "The United States Regional Cook Book," edited by Ruth Berolzheimer and published in 1939. Here, in the Minnesota section, I find not only lefse (flat potato bread) and romme grot (a hot pudding) but everything to include in a big smorgasbord. There
are recipes for baked pike with dill sauce, fiskegrateng (fish souffle), and ... chicken in aspic -- so long out of fashion that it intrigues ... much more than pizza!
Why don't Minnesota chefs put their passion into some traditional dishes and refine them, spin them off, or just make the very best versions of them? (Have Italian-Americans in New York City have turned their backs on Mediterranean food? What of Tex-Mex or Cajun?)
Would anyone out there like to offer recipes for a regional contemporary online cookbook here at the GreenSpace link?
